Pagado Street
Before heading down Pagoda Street, take a little detour that’s well worth your time. Turn left and walk along New Bridge Road, to check out the bak kwa (barbecued meat), lap cheong (traditional Chinese sausage) and local treats at No. 207 and 203. If you can’t resist the wafting aroma, why not buy and try some? Steps away at No. 201 is a sin seh’s (medical practitioner) Chinese Medical Hall. Here you can ask the assistants to find a herbal remedy for whatever ails you.

Yue Hwa (Nam Tin) Building (Formerly Southern Hotel) -
Turn around for a moment and look across the street. On the right corner you’ll see today’s Yue Hwa Chinese Products emporium, which was formerly known as the Great Southern Hotel. Six storeys high, it was built in 1927 by tycoon Eu Tong Sen, who was responsible for helping his father’s Eu Yan Sang traditional Chinese medicine chain expand and flourish. (You’ll come across one of his medical halls later on this route). While the hotel boasted Singapore’s first passenger elevator, the big draw here was undoubtedly its glamorous Southern Cabaret, where high society and the glitterati of the time really lived it up.

Even the street you’re facing is named after Eu Tong Sen. In addition to the Great Southern Hotel and The Majestic, he also owned many other properties along this street.

The Majestic
a beautifully conserved building, and a shopping mall today. Eu Tong Sen built this for his wife on a whim, after another opera house had refused to let her in. In its heyday, opera stars from China, with beautifully painted faces and exquisite costumes, entertained captive audiences, while gracefully sashaying hostesses served them.

Make your way back to Pagoda Street; where even in its early days, the street embodied the profusion of contrasts that has come to represent Singapore. Opium dens and coolie or slave traders thrived here, feeding off each other.

Many coolies, especially those whose families remained in China, sought solace from their hardships at the opium dens. Unfortunately, they also squandered all their hard-earned wages on this habit, ending all dreams of fame and fortune. Little wonder that the biggest coolie house on the island was located here.

Meanwhile, in a rather odd contrast, Hindu worshippers would flock to the temple at the end of the street. Pagoda Street is erroneously name for the entrance of the Sri Mariamman Temple at its far end. The ‘pagoda’ is actually a gopuram or sculptured tower.

Yesterday’s street peddlers who haphazardly displayed their wares along pavements at Pagoda Street have today been replaced by furniture stores filled with exquisitely carved antiques, as well as stores offering artwork, Chinese silk paintings and apparel like the elegant (and sometimes elaborate) cheongsam, brocade souvenirs, calligraphy name cards and other exotica; even spas like the Red Peach, for those in need of some tranquil pampering. A happy co-existence of the modern and traditional, side by side.

Street Markets
Evenings here are a shopaholic’s delight, with the Chinatown Street Markets displaying a treasure of ethnic wares to tempt you. Just like the pasar malam or night markets of old! The perfect place to by presents for friends back home, they operate from5pm to 11pm Sundays to Thursday, and until 1am on Fridays, Saturdays and the eve of public holidays.

Chinatown Heritage Centre
Mid-way down Pagoda Street, at No. 48, is the Chinatown Heritage Centre. Definitely a must-see - it’s the one place that will give you a quick insight into and overview of the area’s history, as well as the people whose hard labour helped build Singapore into the success it is today.

Within the centre, you’ll find an amazing time capsule of the Chinatown of old. Spend some time visiting the recreated room set-ups, viewing the videos, displays, personal collections and sculptures, and you’ll be transported back to an era when life was hard, and the people even hardier.

Get your insider’s view of Chinese traditions and culture from 9am to 6pm Mondays to Thursdays. And 9am to 9pm on Fridays and weekends, with admission at S$8.80 for adults and S$5.30 for children. Explore at leisure or join the free guided tour. And if you want to pick up an interesting souvenir of an era gone by, you’ll find it here.

Sri Mariamman Temple
At the end of Pagoda Street is Sri Mariamman Temple. Singapore’s oldest Hindu temple built in 1827 and often provided shelter to Indian immigrants. It was thus dedicated to the Mother Goddess, Sri Mariamman, who was believed to have used her powers to heal them. And you can still see part of the original 1831 edict granting the temple to charity – on the back, left wall of the temple’s interior.

But before entering, look up at the elaborate gopuram or sculptured tower of gods, goddesses and mythological creatures. See the two Chinese-style windows on the walls flanking the entrance? These allowed the temple’s Chinese devotees to offer prayers from outside the grounds.

Once inside, admire the ornate painted ceiling, statuary and altars, where reflective devotees place their offerings of bananas, mangoes, sometimes even saris. And if you’re visiting during Theemidhi (during October or November), come witness an amazing fire-walking spectacle that’s a huge testimony to the faith of devotees.

The temple allows all-day visiting, but the best times to visit are from 7am to 12noon or 6pm to 8.30pm. Entrance is free, but you’ll require tickets for still and video cameras. Following the custom you should only enter barefoot.

Masjid Jamae
To the left of the temple is Masjid Jamae, whose current building was erected between 1830 and 1835. Designed by George Coleman, who also designed the Armenian Church and Singapore’s original Parliament House, this mosque is of eclectic architecture, a marriage of East and West.

As all mosques do, this one faces Mecca, therefore putting it a little out of alignment with the grid of the street. You’re invited to enter, but please observe the modest dress code and the removal of shoes.

As you leave the mosque, look to you left across South Bridge Road. The old-style Indian frame maker, with his shop second from the junction, is part of a dying breed.

Eu Yan Sang
Heading back along South Bridge Road, you’ll notice Singapore’s oldest and most famous Traditional Chinese Medicine (TCM) hall across the street occupying No. 267 to 271, three wonderfully restored Art Deco-style shophouses, Eu Yan Sang was founded in Perak in 1879 by Eu Kong. His eldest son Eu Tong Sen expanded the business to Singapore and the region, as far as Hong Kong and China.

A highly successful chain today, it still abides by the principle of yan sang (‘caring for mankind’), but has incorporated a scientific approach to the practice, production and marketing of herbal and plant extracts, health foods, soups, teas and tonic wines. Just the place to pop into if you’re feeling under the weather, or simply need a pick-me-up.

Just doors away, at No. 283 to 285 South Bridge Road, you can sample some famous and tantalizing egg tarts from Tong Heng.

Chinatown Food Street
Saunter down Smith Street. Replacing the area’s former brothels, you’ll now find a host of food stalls offering al fresco dining on some of the best of local fare here – no wonder Smith Street is also called Chinatown Food Street!

And experiencing Chinese culture simply wouldn’t be complete without a taste of its delectable cuisine; the many dialect groups manifest their heritage in some very tasty signature specialties. Just try to resist the tantalizing lure of authentic Cantonese, Peranakan (Straits-born) and Teochew fare, among others.
The food stalls are open from 3pm to 11pm Mondays to Thursday, on Sundays and public holidays; and 12pm to 1am on Fridays. Saturdays and the eve of public holidays. Go on, forget about dieting for a day and indulge!

Lai Chun Yuen
Located at the corner of Smith and Trengganu Street is Lai Chun Yuen a former Cantonese opera house. Built in 1887 in the style of a tea house; it was an architectural delight; boasting high-ceilinged rooms with wooden balconies; decorated with painted ornaments and dimly-lit lanterns. From ground level today, you can still catch a glimpse of its lovely latticed balcony railings and graceful columns.

In its heyday, patrons would casually mingle around small tables, nibbling tidbits and sipping tea; while listening to famous opera singers from China and Hong Kong.

Trengganu Street was once popularly called Japanese Street, as the island’s few Japanese brothels were concentrated here. During the pre-war years, Japanese prostitutes plied their trade with the oddly noble intention of helping finance their country’s military efforts!

Chinatown Complex, Market & Food Centre
Diagonally across this corner are Chinatown Complex, Market And Food Centre, tuck into the hawker fare as the locals do; the food is hearty, and the prices very reasonable. Then step into the wet market at the basement, for a first-hand look at how people living in HDB flats nearby buy their fresh vegetables and meats. In fact, all Singaporeans bought groceries in this way, before the days of supermarkets.

Trishaw Park
As you wander down Sago Street, you’ll see wonderfully restored traditional shophouses of second transitional style. Drop by Trishaw Park at Kreta Ayer Square. Formerly an old market square, it’s now a popular spot for the area’s elderly residents to chat with friends or play an intensely focused game of Chinese checkers.

Approach the trishaw booth, hire a trishaw, and then set off for a truly off-beat adventure. A ride along fixed along routes start from S$36 per person, and gives you an unforgettable way to explore Chinatown, as well as a very unusual perspective of the area. Otherwise, continue on foot.

Death Houses
The next street, Sago Lane, was once lined with death houses. The Chinese believed that dying in the house you lived in brought bad luck to the other residents, and so many of the poor came here to die. Funeral parlours attached to these death houses ensured proper burial rites for the deceased.

Death houses no longer exits in Singapore, but you’ll still find shops selling elaborate and intricate paper effigies. One of these is close to where you’re standing, at #01-86, Block 5 on Banda Street. If you’ve time to spare, step in and you might just see an elaborate paper BMW or gold credit card!

As part of funeral rituals, paper effigies of houses, money or worldly goods were burned along with some of the deceased’s personal possessions, in the belief that this same wealth and worldly comforts would then await the deceased in the spirit world.

Royal Peacock Hotel
Not far away, on Keong Saik Road, you’ll find two of Chinatown’s exquisite boutique hotels. Occupying a row of then shophouses, the Royal Peacock Hotel was once famed for its red lanterns and ladies of the night. Restored to its original architectural splendour; it is a gem of timbered ceilings, shutters and louvered doors; with all the colour, character and charm of a bygone era.

Hotel 1929
Across the road is its contemporary counterpart, Hotel 1929, named after the year it was built. The original façade of the 4-storey shophouses belies an ultra-modern interior filled with up-market European designer furnishing and lighting. Setting new standards, this hip, intimate hotel stands in stark contrast to its surroundings.

Red lanterns were a ‘discreet’ indication to would-be customers that a house was used as the brothel.

Tea Chapter
As you make your way to Neil Road, head to No.9 and 11, where Tea Chapter promises an eye-opening experience. Discover the ancient etiquette and many intricacies of brewing, pouring and drinking tea at Singapore’s larges tea house. Tidbits and finger food to complement this include eggs brewed in tea – unique indeed! Spend some time here, to gain a deeper understanding of and insight into Chinese tea culture.

Jinriksha Station
Just steps away. On the corner of Neil and Tanjong Pagar Road sits the Jinriksha Station. A regal building on busy corner, it features long pilasters, a square tower with an octagonal cupola, and a delightfully sunny central courtyard.

Around 1904, the station was set up as the main depot for jinrikshas, a small, light, hooded cart with large wheels that was pulled by a single man. Hoods could be put up to protect the passenger from the sun, rain or prying eyes. A jinriksha ride cost 3¢ for half a mile (0.8 km) or 20¢ for an hour. Pittance today, but no small sum in the early 1900s. And this form of transport proved so popular that it gave early steam trams intense competition, and eventually ran them out of business.

Maxwell Road Food Centre
Another interesting spot to visit lies across Maxwell Road. The Maxwell Road Food Centre is an extremely popular lunch spot for the Business District crowd, as well as a dinner haunt for locals. Quench your thirst with a delightful chendol. Or to cool down, dig into ice kacang.

Congratulations, you have completed Tour 1. Click to continue

Tour 2a of Chinatown
Tour 2b of Chinatown