Most people are visual thinkers. It helps if they can visualize something before they fully understand it. Homebuyers are particularly visual. Clean, uncluttered and neutral often define "beauty" for them. They are the keys to opening up a homebuyer's heart and wallet.
1. Clean
First impressions are important. And curb appeal means just that: How does your house look from the curbside. Check your emotions at the curb. Stand out on the road in front of your house with a notepad. What do you see?
Make sure the grass is cut, the lawn is properly edged and any junk in the yard is gone. A simple, colorful garden is always appealing. Keep it weeded. Strategically place pots of bright flowers near the entryway. They are welcoming, exude warmth, and are always visually pleasing. If possible, remove playground equipment because not every buyer will have a family; it takes up space and can give the impression that the yard is smaller than it really is. The pool should be sparkling and pool accessories well maintained. Do what it takes to spruce up chipped paint, faded deck boards, or a rusted mailbox.
Paint your front door. A well-appointed front door gives potential purchasers that all-important great first impression. It says, "I am cared for."
If you are not normally obsessive about keeping the dust bunnies at bay, now is the time to get better acquainted with your broom. No one wants to visualize living in a dirty house. Keep it clean and smelling naturally fresh, and visions of your house as their home will be easy to conjure up.
Pay close attention to the cleanliness of the entry, the kitchen and the bathrooms. These rooms can make or break the sale of a house. Keep them sparkling, clutter-free and bright.
2. Uncluttered
A well staged home is one that has been mercilessly minimized. It is anonymous; no family photos, no souvenirs, no knick-knacks.
Homebuyers are not like visitors. They will look in your cupboards, closets and medicine cabinets. Don't clear off your counter tops and shove everything into the cupboards.
Getting rid of excess "stuff" can be cathartic, but if it is just too daunting a task to tackle on your own enlist the help of a friend, or hire a professional organizer (See: National Association of Professional Organizers).
Attack the basement, garage and every closet/cupboard in the house with the fierce will of an army drill sergeant. Let no errant shoe, unused kitchen gadget, or expired cough syrup bottle pass by without first scrutinizing it. Keep only what you use or wear often. Pack up the rest and either decommission it (re-sell, give away, throw out) or put it into a temporary storage container.
Remove everything, or almost everything, from your kitchen counters. If your electric can opener, blender, food processor, toaster, microwave, bread box, and knife set all stand guard on your kitchen counters you will have to ensure that they stand down.
Put the 242 mismatched plastic lids and yogurt containers you've been saving into the recycle bin, and pack up the teacups you inherited from Great Aunt Gertrude. If you don't use it every day then clear it out. The less you have in your cupboards the bigger they will look and the more impressed a buyer will be.
Potential purchasers aren't interested in what great stuff you have. They want to see themselves in the space. When they can see their stuff in your space you are one step closer to a sale.
3. Neutral
Neutral colors on the walls, in the few accessories you choose to keep, and on the floors give a house that wonderful "model home" feeling.
Getting your house ready for sale often times means re-inventing its look. Besides weeding out your stuff, cleaning and de-personalizing, painting the walls can be your best investment. Painting your entire house a light neutral color, white, off-white or taupe, for example - brightens up the space, making it look bigger and fresher.
Don't spend money replacing the flooring. Make only minor repairs and do only basic remodeling, if absolutely necessary. Fix squeaking door hinges, do something about the source of any water stains, have the carpets cleaned. But don't suddenly decide to build a recreation room in the basement.
House In Texas For Sale
When done correctly we define Slow Play as: The art of representing weakness with a passive betting style in order to throw off or deceive your opponent to achieve a greater pay off. Often it turns out to be the art of representing weakness with a passive betting style in order to encourage marginal hands to stick around to outdraw you so that you can lose the hand.
Lets get started with you on the button and you get dealt pocket rockets.
A couple of players limp in and you decide to call-SLOW PLAY IT!. This is a huge mistake. First of all, to raise from the button is a fairly standard play and is commonly referred to as a position raise.
Most people that know anything about the game don't head for the hills because the button raised. In fact, there is more bluffing from the button than any other position.
This means that you aren't necessarily giving up information, particularly from that position. The second mistake is that you let the big blind in for free and the small blind in for half a bet.
Sit and watch the $100/200 limit game and keep note of how long you have to sit there before you observe an instance where the Big blind plays for free.
I make it down to Foxwoods twice a month. If geographically feasible I suggest you do the same. The 4/8 and 5/10 limit games are pretty soft and so far have been very beatable.
This is what happened my last visit to Conneticut. I had just won two decent hands in a row(always nice) and am now in the Big blind. I get dealt real junk, 6/8 unsuited. To my surprise everyone limps and I am going to see a flop. Well, the flop comes 10c, 8c, 8s. I just flopped a set. I have not put anyone on a big pocket pair, never mind Aces. I am sure you can appreciate that I have no business being in this hand. Yet, I'm 99% sure I am in the lead.
The irony here is that I now slow play my trip 8's and check. The player to my left bets and there are three other callers including me. The turn produces a miracle 6c. I've got a full house and am praying that someone hit the club flush just as long as he is not holding the 79c.
I bet the eight and the player to my left makes it 16, the button pushes it to 24, I cap it at 32, the two raisers call and we have a very nice pot in the making. The river produces a rag and I lead out and everyone calls, I win a nice pot. The player to my left had limped with AQc and the button limped with AA.
What happened here happens quite a bit. The AQc player should have raised in early position trying to get as many out of the pot as possible. AQs are nice cards but has problems particularly in an early seat. The button's AA should have also raised as the button often raises due to position as discussed earlier.
The point being that both players did everything possible to throw away the hand. The funny thing is that the slow player(s) got slowplayed.
When I'm dealt AQ, particularly in early position, I come out flying. You do this because you want to play this hand heads up, or better still, win it right there. For what ever reason this player assigned greater value to AQ than he should have.
AA is consistently over valued and as a result is played incorrectly. I'm always fascinated by people's reaction when their aces get cracked. It's as if they've lost track of the fact that there are still 5 cards to come. Not to mention that these same five cards are shared by the opposition.
When people play draw or stud there isn't anywhere near the disapointment when their aces don't hold up.
Always try to focus on the fact that 71.4% of your cards are community cards. To state the obvious the button should have raised his bullets and only got fancy if the third ace is produced on the flop.
He had two problems with that flop; the board paired and the clubs potentially offered the flush draw for someone. The value of his aces took a big hit and he clearly was oblivious to this shift evidenced by his raise on the turn, making it three bets. When the third club came on the turn and he faced a raise from early position it should have sent off an alarm that his aces were beat.
Unless I'm playing heads up or with two other players I never slow play the early betting rounds with AA or KK. It makes no sense to let the BB in free with rags for the shot at outdrawing you.
Effective slow play takes place after the flop and to a greater extent at the turn when there is high % of certainty that you not only have the best hand, but that any improvement on the part of your opposition will not beat you. When your opponent hits his hand on a dead draw is the optimum outcome for you to get paid off. Try it this way. Your win/loss relationship will vastly improve!
Both Gerald Meyer & Thomas Berten are contributors for EditorialToday. The above articles have been edited for relevancy and timeliness. All write-ups, reviews, tips and guides published by EditorialToday.com and its partners or affiliates are for informational purposes only. They should not be used for any legal or any other type of advice. We do not endorse any author, contributor, writer or article posted by our team.
Gerald Meyer has sinced written about articles on various topics from Jewelry, Green Tea and Buying and Selling Home. http://www.LeannaMeyer.com provides all the information you need to get started in buying or selling a house in the North Texas area. Find. Gerald Meyer's top article generates over 18100 views. Bookmark Gerald Meyer to your Favourites.
Thomas Berten has sinced written about articles on various topics from Recreation and Sports, Affiliate Programs and How to Sell on Ebay. John Ruscio Has been playing winning poker for 29 years and offers Free Texas Holdem Instruction, Expert articles and hosts Freeroll Tournaments with cash prizes. Check it out:. Thomas Berten's top article generates over 12100 views. Bookmark Thomas Berten to your Favourites.
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