The camera has one small, slow chip and very little memory to do that interpolation. Your computer has a big, powerful processor and lots of memory, not to mention, no particular need to compromise their software routines to fit into a small amount of memory or trade quality for speed to avoid long delays after taking a picture. In short, your computer will do a vastly better job at interpolating the picture than your camera will, and to top that off you can choose different algorithms (often named after the mathematicians or programmers who created them, like Lanczos or Mitchell) and experiment with how well they work on a particular image. You can even save different versions of the file, including the original, which you can't if the camera is doing the work. There's nothing to be gained by compromising image quality, which is exactly what you're doing if you don't use the best filter you can get your hands on. The interpolated image even takes up more space on your camera's memory card, but it doesn't hold any more information than the original. Finally, as I mentioned above, it adds time between shots, as the camera has to grind away at reshaping your picture before you can take another one.

You can use your photo editing software or even many picture viewers or dedicated programs, to view and copy EXIF data. It can also be used by specialized software provided by the camera manufacturer when loading pictures into your computer to record information about camera settings and even provide editing options. One of the things these transfer programs can do is to change the timestamp of the newly created file to match the time the photo was taken. That's another good reason to set the clock on your camera to the correct time. This data can be used to record a log of photographs for a variety of purposes. The time a favored shot was taken may be referred to later in duplicating light conditions. You can keep track of settings for experimenting with changes in settings, and never get your pictures mixed up because the data is stored as part of the file itself. You can export or copy the EXIF information and not have to manually enter information in your log.

What is it that is actually capturing the image? Where film cameras have a roll of film exposed behind the aperture, digital cameras have a sensor. Most digital cameras use an array of photo sensors under a filter matrix which results in the sensors each recording red (8-12 bit), green (8-12 bit) or blue (8-12 bit) light intensities. These separate sensors or channels create what is often referred to as the Bayer matrix pattern where every other sensor records green with the alternating cells recording in red or blue. Each pixel in a conventional sensor only captures one color. This data is typically 10 or 12 bits per pixel, with 12 bits per pixel currently being most common. Most cameras now provide the option to instantaneously store the captured material in a RAW file while alternatively the camera's processor can weave the RAW data using all three color channels to provide an instant 24 bit full-color JPEG or TIFF display image. RAW is not an abbreviation but literally means "raw" or "unprocessed". A RAW data file contains the original image information as it comes off the sensor before in-camera processing so you have a variety of choices in processing the data on your PC using one of many editing software programs available.

When discussing image quality for digital photographs image noise is the equivalent of film grain for analogue cameras. Despite the fact that we are working in a visual instead of an audio medium, it is called noise, which is analogous to the subtle background hiss when a television channel has no broadcast or your audio system is turned up at full volume without a record or disk. In digital images, noise refers to random specks on the surface of a photo, which can degrade the quality of the image. While noise is often seen as a distraction and detriment to a photograph, it can be a desirable condition for certain artistic effects. Noise varies with sensitivity settings, length of exposure, temperature, and different camera models. The signal to noise ratio (SNR) is a useful and universal way of comparing the relative amounts of signal and noise for any electronic system. ISO setting or ISO speed are the standards, which describe a camera's sensitivity to light. A camera's relative sensitivity to light is represented by the ratio of the two ISO numbers. In terms of practical application, a photo taken at ISO 200 will take half as long to reach the same level of exposure as a photo taken at ISO 100 where all other settings are the same.

If you are looking to turn your pictures into pieces of art, there are many options available to you, as well. You can turn your print into a black and white picture and hand color some details. You can create beautiful special effects that will really make your digital photo stand out in a crowd, too. As you can image, the tools to create the perfect picture can cost a lot of money, if you have to purchase them. If you are on a budget, or just like to save money, anything you can find for free is a bonus! Well, there are free photo editors out there, you just have to look for them. Since the introduction of the Internet, there are literally thousands upon thousands of pages of information that are geared specifically toward helping you achieve the pictures of your dreams. You don't have to spend one penny to edit your photographs. All you need is access to a computer and scanner and you are well on your way. Just log onto any one of the number of free photo editor applications available and a whole new world of editing possibilities will be right at your fingertips. Don't let your money, or lack of, keep you from making the best pictures, just download some freeware and start editing your own pictures!

At the opposite end of the spectrum, you can take advantage of the extremely short duration of the flash in low-light situations. Flash firing time can be as short as 1/50,000 of a second, and while the camera's CCD sensor will remain active longer than that, almost all of the light in a dark scene that reaches the CCD will be from that flash event. This can effectively "freeze" the action as if you were using a shutter speed faster than your camera can support. Small built-in flash units have a very short "reach," often providing effective light only as far as two or three meters. This weakness, however, can be turned into a strength if you think about how you want to compose your scene. Certainly for "isolating" or emphasizing your subject, the ability to move only a short distance from background objects and radically reduce their light level is handy. In night shots outdoors or low-level indoor shots, the "weaker" flash gives more control over the content of the shot by dramatically reducing the "foreground" and magnifying the effect of distance.

The good news in the world of memory cards for digital photography is that new media is cheaper, faster, and more readily available than ever. The abundance of choices means you can always find a method of storage that fits your needs and budget, and you'll likely not end up with a camera that you can't find storage media for. Most of the time you choose your memory card based on which camera you have, and then you're more interested in size and brand than technology. When you're shopping for a new camera, however, you want to take memory type into account. That being said, here's the latest news on the available choices. Multi-Media Cards (MMC) are definitely worth looking out for. Developed as a royalty-free standard, anyone can make the cards or the devices that support them. As an added advantage, the full-size MMC cards can be used in SD card slots. As a disadvantage, the standard is growing - in the sense that there are now five versions of the MMC standard with different sizes, voltages and features, in use. So watch your eBay purchases carefully. Available in sizes up to 2 Gigabytes