Oil and gas are still big business around here. Houston dominates southeast Texas thanks to a near manic commitment to growth, unfettered by zoning restrictions. The interesting bits are concentrated within a few miles of downtown; a 30 to 45 minute drive south on I-45 brings you to coastal attractions.

For heaven sakes, don't visit in August. Locals argue that it's the heat not the humidity that is the problem, but who cares? The steam off the concrete is stifling. Average daytime temperatures swelter around 94'F (34'C). June to November is hurricane season along the coast, adding the possibility of tropical rain. Humidity is highest in October, when it can be a deranging 93% at the crack of dawn. Late February to early April is definitely the time to come. You can catch the rodeo, admire the bluebonnets, and enjoy the lower heat and humidity.

The fourth-largest city in the US, Houston is the hub of a sprawling metropolitan area. It is located in eastern Texas, 80km (50mi) northwest of the Gulf of Mexico on the southern edge of the US. The city is 385km (240mi) south of Dallas and 320km (200mi) east of San Antonio. Houston's as flat as a pancake; the trickling waters and high banks of the Buffalo Bayou snaking along west of downtown are the closest thing Houston has to an interesting landscape. The junctures of I-45, I-59 and I-10 define the compact downtown core where streets follow a fairly predictable grid pattern. The confusing metropolitan area stretches for about 1600 sq km (600 sq mi) out from there.

Loop 610 and Beltway 8 form concentric circles around the centre. Major neighbourhoods include Houston Heights, an affluent, quiet residential area north of downtown, overlooking the Buffalo Bayou; Montrose, the centre of Houston's gay scene, with a funky mix of shops, restaurants, galleries and tattoo parlours a few blocks southwest of downtown; the Museum District, sandwiched between Hermann Park and Hwy 59 southwest of downtown; and University Village, a few square blocks with hundreds of shops, cafes and pubs west of Rice University, adjacent to the Museum district.

Houston has two airports: Bush Intercontinental Airport is located 35km (22mi) north of downtown Houston; William P Hobby Airport is 18km (11mi) southeast of the centre. The Amtrak train station is in a scruffy area at the western edge of downtown Houston. The bus terminal is between downtown and the Museum District.