The snare is a shallow drum with crooked, wiggly wires attached to one of the heads. These crooked wires are called snares, and they are what give this drum both its name and its distinctive sound. The head that has the snares lying against it is a special extra thin head and should never be hit with your sticks. It should be treated as carefully as an egg. The snare drum uses a special stand to hold it, called, you guessed it, a snare stand. There are generally two different kinds of snare stands one on top of which the drum sits flat, and another kind that has an adjustment that allows the stand to grab the snare drum tight.
Whichever kind of stand you have, it is very important to pay attention to that fragile bottom head when putting the drum on the stand. It's very easy to break that head by setting the drum down on the stand and letting the little finger like parts of the stand accidentally poke through the head instead of resting against the outside of the drum, as they're supposed to. It's very important that you understand this part of setting up your snare drum. You will find a device on the side of your snare drum called a throw off. This is like a switch that can turn the sound of the snares on and off and can also control how tightly the snares hug the bottom head.
Feel free to turn the snares on and off and use the fine tuning adjuster to get an idea of how the throw off affects the sound of the snare drum. The fine tuning adjuster is turned like a knob, while the on off control is more like a switch. You generally want to find a medium setting where the snares aren't rattling around too loosely and aren't so tight against the bottom head that they sound choked.
Experimentation with the throw off will lead you to the sound that works best for you. Once you have the snare drum on its stand, it's time to put it in the kit. When you're sitting at your bass drum on the throne, your right foot should be on the bass drum pedal with the snare drum stand between your legs. (Take a moment to make sure that the height of the snare drum is right for you, it can be adjusted. The snare drum should generally be at the same height as your stomach.)
The hi hat stand and cymbals are probably the most complex piece of hardware on your drum kit. The bottom part of the hi hat stand looks like the other cymbal stands except it has a pedal as one of its parts.Set the bottom part upright and spread the legs out until the base of the pedal is sitting flat on the floor, and then tighten the legs in place. Now look for a thin metal rod that has a threaded end. There might be an odd looking contraption with a hand screw on the side of it attached to a long, thin rod. This contraption is called a clutch. If the clutch is not attached to the long, thin rod, locate it hi the pile of hardware.
Boot Camp Setup Guide
At the top of the cymbal stand, you'll see what's called the cymbal tilter. The tilter may or may not be in a folded up position when you first go to set it up. You'll know it's in the folded up position if you're looking at it and you can't picture a cymbal being attached to it. In this case, simply unscrew the hand screw that you'll find on the side of the tilter just enough so you can move the tilter up and down. Put the tilter in a more or less horizontal position, and use the same hand screw to tighten it in place. When the tilter is in its upright position, you should see either a metal wing nut or a plastic sleeve, two felts, and a metal disc, all stacked up on each other on the tilter.
To put the cymbal on the stand, unscrew the wing nut or sleeve ail the way and put it aside (but not too far aside because you're going to need it again in a second). Next, take one of the two felts off the tilter and place the cymbal right side up on the stand on top of the remaining felt. Then, take the first felt and put it on top of the cymbal. Now, take the wing nut or sleeve and screw it on top of the tilter. When screwing down the wing nut on top of the cymbal stand, be careful not to screw it down so tightly that the cymbal barely moves when it's on the stand. You want the cymbal to have as much movement on the stand as it can without failing off.
If you put the death grip on the wing nut, you run the risk of breaking your cymbals by not allowing them free motion when they're being played. Now that the crash cymbal is on its stand, you can put it n your setup. As a general rule, most drum kits have only one set of hi hat cymbals and one ride cymbal, but they can have any number of crash cymbals. For example, my setup has three different crash cymbals in various places. if you have only one crash cymbal at this time, the best place to put it would be between the hi hats and the first tom.
The crash cymbal is made to be hit on its edge, so you should put it at a more or less horizontal position. Put it at a height that's comfortable for you and the length of your arms. Be careful not to put it up so high that you need to stretch your arm all the way to hit it, and don't put it low enough to knock against the top of your hi hat stand or your first tom when it's in free motion after being hit. Think of the height that Goldilocks would like: just right. The Ride Cymbal The ride cymbal is most likely the largest and heaviest cymbal in your collection. Go ahead and put it on a cymbal stand the same way that you put your crash cymbal on its stand, with one felt under the cymbal and one felt and the wing nut on top of the cymbal. You might want to tighten down the wing nut just a little bit more than you did with the crash cymbal, but again, not too much.
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