In Part I of this III Part series, we talked about two cheap upgrades that would improve performance.  First, an upper stress bar to improve handling, and second, a cold air intake to improve horsepower and add some growl.  In Part II, we’re going to cover some more ground in the world of suspension.  After all, you want to get your GTI or Jetta out into some curves… don’t you?  If so, you’ll need some quality suspension products to keep you on the road, out of the trees, and away from those pesky guardrails.



One of the two greatest concerns, when it comes to ripping the road, is suspension stiffness.  Usually when suspension stiffness is modified, you also tend to modify your center of gravity, otherwise deemed ‘Ride Height’.  For about $225.00, a fellow dubber can obtain a set of fine quality H&R Springs.  Options include the H&R Sport Springs, which tend to be stiffer than stock, but not absurdly so.  The H&R Race Springs, very stiff, and not very comfortable for everyday ride.  If you have a Golf or Jetta, then H&R’s Sport Springs are going to make night and day difference alone.  If you have a GTI, you already know that the ride can be a bit rough, and going to a set of Race Springs is going to make it a bit worse.  A rude awakening for most.  For a GTI owner, a set of Sport Springs should do the trick.

Let’s quickly review what’s entailed in a spring replacement.  First, you’ll need a set of Craftsman Strut Spring Compressor Tool with Built-In Safety Pins from Sears.  They run about $50.00.  Now if you’re trying to be scrappy, you can always take these back when done.  Just clean them up with a little WD-40 when you’re finished.  ;)  The back is going to be harder than the front in a way, as you’re probably going to have to tear apart some interior.  No worries though, it all snaps together/apart.  Loosen your lug nuts on the first set of wheels while the car is on the ground.  Pop the hood and loosen the strut tower nuts.  Place a block or two behind the tires that will remain on the ground.  (just in case)  Jack one end of the car up one side at a time and place your jack stands under the front cross-member.  (this has always worked for me)  Pull off the first wheel, and remove bolts according to the Bentley Manual for your Golf or Jetta.  Shimmy that strut out of there as a whole unit.

Once the strut is on the ground, go ahead and use the Strut Spring Compressor Tool to get the spring compressed.  Be sure to keep the sides as even as possible!  Once you feel you’ve gotten the spring compressed, unscrew the nut at the top of the strut tower.  Everything should come apart relatively easily.  Slide your existing spring off, and slide the new lower and stiffer springs on. You may not even need to compress the new springs when putting everything back together.  When done, slide the entire strut back into place, and follow the above steps in reverse order.  Voila!  One down, three more to go!

The second largest concern in tearing through turns is, making sure the car doesn’t sway in corners.  Flailing, swaying, body-roll, etc. can all lead to disaster when cornering hard.  The objective is to keep the car from shifting as much as possible when turning.  There’s a great deal of expensive hardware in existence to help this out, but let’s stay focused on the cheap, but effective items.  The cheap solution? An Eibach Sway Bar & Anti-Roll Kit!  Price?  Ballpark cost is around $350.00, shipped.  The heavier gauge steel used in these sway bars is significant improvement over the stock sway bars.  Yes, you have existing sway bars, but they’re weak.  Thus, the recommended upgrade.

Let’s quickly review the install process for your Eibach Sway Bar & Anti-Roll Kit.  Pick the front or back of the car to start.  Place a block or two behind the tires that will remain on the ground.  (just in case)  Jack one end of the car up one side at a time and place your jack stands under the front cross-member.  (this has always worked for me)  Get some light under the car and look for the stock sway bar.  Locate the nuts/bolts that hold it in place, and begin to loosen them.  You may need an allen wrench and a box wrench in order to remove the existing sway bar. You’ll understand this when you see it.  Once bolts are removed, go ahead and  finagle the bar out from underneath the car.  Repeat these steps in reverse in order to get the new sway bar in place.  Drop some grease on those bushings.  Rinse, lather, repeat for other end of car.  Thanks Eibach!

For the average driver, these two upgrades combined provide substantial improvement over the original equipment.  Combine them with the two upgrades in Part I of this series, and you will find your car riding on rails like you were riding a roller coaster.