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Soap Making Essential Oils

    View: 
- Perfumery



- Cosmetics

- Incense

- Culinary purposes

- Food essence

- Fabric and hair conditioners

- Detergents and other cleaning products and aromatherapy

- Remedies for mental fatigue and stress

- Mitigating depression

- Fading away sadness

I. History

They have been around since antiquity and credits were given to early Egyptians when they employ essential oils for cosmetics, perfumery, and embalming purposes. Examples of essential oils are peppermint, sandalwood, Citronella oil, lavender oil, and eucalyptus etc. Based from the example given, essential oil is named from the plant material from which it was extracted.

II. Production

Essential oils are produced in different ways. Most are produced by distillation (steam distillation). Distillation is a process of separating liquids of different vapor pressure. In chemistry we learned that a substance with higher vapor pressure has a lower boiling point. The next paragraph illustrates this process. In this process, the plant material are held in a pressing material or kept in a certain container where liquids will be allowed to evaporate. Liquid substances in the plant material with lower boiling points are distilled first while allowing liquid material with higher boiling points to remain as in the case of essential oils. Still, other essences (essential oils) are so hard to extract that they need to undergo a series of complicated process. Jasmine and rose oils are examples. They undergo rigorous distillation process, first by being washed in a sea of solvent material (supercritical carbon dioxide or hexane) to extract a mixture of essential oils (concrete) derived from the process. The concrete will then have to undergo a second phase of distillation process using alcohol-based products, to effectively separate various volatile oil (absolute) products from the distilled material.

III. Uses

Due to their characteristic volatile (readily vaporizable) and molecular properties, essential oils possess characteristic odor, and can be appreciated through smelling, skin application and ingestion.

Essential oils are used most commonly used in

- Perfumery

- Aromatherapists (body treatment, including massage with the use of botanical oils/essential oils) Herbalists, chiropractors (treatment aimed at correcting neurobiological connections in the body), and naturopaths (treatment using natural therapeutic method such as air, water, sunshine), use essential oils in various treatment strategies.

- Medical doctors are also reported to have been using essential oils in the treatment of various dermatological problems. They are also used in trials involving placebo-containing medical products.

- Psychologists and psychiatrists employs a number of essential oils in the treatment of anxiety, depression, hysteria, panic attacks, apathy and a number of psychological problems.

- Botanical oils are also used in culinary applications

- Manufacture of detergents and soaps - Their incorporation in soaps and hair products allows for the quick healing of cuts and bruises and other scalp problems such as dandruff

- Provide characteristic scent to beverages and lately candles

IV. Choosing The Right Essential Oils for You

With hundreds of botanical oils around, you will surely be able to find one that is right for you. Different people have different preferences for essential oils but it's a fact that there are oils which are fitted for use for a specific end-user. In choosing the type of botanical oil that is perfect for you, you may consider the following recommendations below:

Know yourself

Essential oils have characteristic effect on your body. It may help stimulate your senses if you are depressed or emotionally down or help you calm down after a stressful moment. In any case, an expert aromatherapist will be able to help you decide which essential oils are best for you.

Skin Type

Some people are allergic to essential oils and may cause them to suffer biological aversion to aromatic scents. There are botanical oils that are perfect for a specific skin types, allowing some people to use a specific scent more than another.

Scent Extension

Some aromatic, herbal plants contain a measly amount of essential oils. Infact, it takes more than 8 million flowers of jasmine in order to produce a measly 2 pounds of jasmine essential oils. Some are diluted with Geranium oil or sweet almond oil in order to somewhat extend their fragrance. They do not diminish the scent of the jasmine but theoretically, increasing its usability.

V. Popular Essential Oils

Chamomile

Useful for skin sensitivity conditions and allergies, relaxing and relieves pain. For dry skin

Geranium

Used for various fungal infections and other skin problems. Effective for repelling insects. For dry skin

Rose oil

This essential oil has a mild antiseptic ingredient. It decongest clogged nose, ease sore throat and sinusitis, and effective for insomniacs.

Lavender

Relaxing and loosen up pain caused by bruises, cuts and insect bits (analgesic effect).

Sandalwood

Due to its moisturizing and antiseptic properties, this essential oil is effective both for individuals with normal or dry skin. It has an extraordinary calming effect and is best used in meditation (yoga).

Jasmine

This essential oil activates your senses. It makes your body come alive after a saddening moment (anti-depressant). Effective for dry skin.
Soap Making Essential Oils
Yes, even the age-old manufacture of pure essential oils is going high-tech. New modern distillation methods are entering the mainstream, offering wonderful new choices to aromatherapy enthusiasts and natural health professionals. What are these new methods, and more importantly, do they make better essential oils? More therapeutic? Nicer smelling? Well, for most varieties, the oils are simply ?different' ? not necessarily ?better'. For a few select oils, these new techniques MAY produce a more healing oil, and for others, the oils produced will truly add to the palate of the natural perfumer. Here's a quick look at all the major distillation methods in use today?

A number of factors determine the final quality of a steam distilled essential oil. Aside from the plant material itself, most important are time, temperature and pressure, and the quality of the distillation equipment. Oils used in therapeutic aromatherapy are really very chemically-intricate liquids; each is made up of many, sometimes hundreds, of distinct molecules which come together to form the oil's aroma and therapeutic properties. Some of these molecules are fairly delicate structures which can be altered or destroyed by adverse environmental conditions. So, much like a fine meal is more flavorful when made with patience, most oils benefit from a long, slow 'cooking' process.

The distillation vessel's temperature needs to be carefully monitored and controlled so that the more delecate volitile compounds are preserved. The same is true of the chamber's pressure. Lavender essential oil, for example, should not be processed at over 245 degrees F and three pounds per square inch of pressure (3 psi). Higher temperatures and/or pressures result in a 'harsh' aroma ? more chemical than floral ? and lessen the oil's therapeutic effects. In addition, the duration of the distillation needs to be precisely monitored for each oil variety - not too long and not too short. This ensures all the important oil components are released, but the resultant oil is not 'overcooked', sometimes resulting in an unpleasant 'medicinal' scent.

Despite the drawbacks of aggressive processing, high temperatures and pressures are often used to produces large quantities of oil in a short period of time. These oils are usually destined for use in cosmetic and processed food manufacturing, but are sometimes sold to final consumers as essential oils for use in aromatherapy. These oils will be less expensive, but are of limited therapeutic value, and the difference is apparent when the aromas are compared side-by-side. Some plants, and particularly flowers, do not lend themselves to steam distilling. The volatile components are often too fragile, or too difficult to extract using other means. These oils will be produced as 'absolutes' ? and while not technically considered essential oils they can still be of therapeutic value. Jasmine oil and Rose oil in particular are delicate flowers who's oils are often found in 'absolute' form.

The processing of an absolute first involves the hydrocarbon solvent extraction of a 'concrete' from the plant material, a semi-solid mixture of typically 50% wax and 50% volatile oil. The concrete is again processed using ethyl alcohol (the same alcohol found in beer, wine, etc.) in which the wax is only slightly soluble. The volatile plant oil separates into the alcohol and this mixture is removed. The alcohol is then evaporated and the result is an almost pure plant extract ? depending on the care taken in the evaporation process, sometimes 2% or less of the ethyl alcohol may remain. The use of solvents in the extraction process notwithstanding, absolutes can have incredibly deep and complex aromas. The new high tech distillation methods include: Carbon Dioxide and Supercritical Carbon Dioxide extraction. Both methods involve the use of carbon dioxide as the 'solvent' which carries the essential oil away from the raw plant material. CO2 distillation uses carbon dioxide that is cooled and pressuried; the plant matter is bathed in this natural solvent much like it would be with steam distillation. The carbon dioxide in this condition is condensed to a liquid. Supercritical CO2 extraction (SCO2) involves carbon dioxide heated to 87 degrees F and pumped through the plant material at around 8,000 psi ? under these conditions, the carbon dioxide is likened to a 'dense fog' or vapor. With release of the pressure in either process, the carbon dioxide escapes in its gaseous form, leaving the essential oil behind.

These carbon dioxide methods have a couple of advantages: Like steam distillation, there are no solvent residues left behind, and the resultant product is quite pure. Like solvent extraction, there is no heat applied to the plant material or essential oil to alter it in any way. The oil produced is very accurate with respect to the original state of the plant. The CO2 methods also are the most efficient, producing the most oil per amount of plant (one of the reasons for the high cost of essential oils is the low yield of oil from most plants ? one ton of Rose petals produces less than 1 pound of oil, for example). The efficiency of CO2 extraction is particularly important when rare or endangered plant species are involved, such as Indian Sandalwood oil ? less of the precious plant is needed to produce an equivalent amount of oil.

Last but not least is the expeller pressing of essential oils from the rinds of ripe fruits like lemons, limes, oranges and grapefruits. This method involves the simple pressing of the rind at about 120 degrees F to extract the oil. These are the most true-to-nature of essential oils, as they are really not processed at all. The oils have that wonderfull 'zing' of fresh, ripe fruit - and these oils are highly regarded for their emotionally-brightening effects.

CO2's, with some obvious advantages, are not always the best choice for a particular need. They still are the most expensive, despite their higher yields. The resultant product differs slightly compared to one produced another way ? the oils produced by steam distillation of some plants may sometimes be found to have a more agreeable aroma. Patchouli oil, for example, seems to benefit from the steam distillation process by becoming a little warmer and richer. Many other essential oils are quite effectively produced via steam distillation, with little alteration from the original plant state. Oils from other plant species do seem more 'complete' with CO2 processing, with Frankincense oil and most of the 'spice' oils being good examples where a little something special is present in the aroma. This likely translates to greater therapeutic properties.

Producing essential oils of aroma-therapeutic grade is skill requiring years of experience. It takes the work of a dedicated artesian at every step, from growing and harvesting to fine-tuning the distillation process, to produce a truly fine oil. The making of a fine essential oil relies far more on knowledge and experience than it does on the particular extraction method. There are, however, legitimate reasons to select one distillation method over another ? some plants simply require a particular process to produce a fine oil, and the oil needed for a particular application may only be made by one process. In the end, as is often the case in aromatherapy, your own sense of smell can tell you which oil will work best for you.
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Misty Rae Cech Nd, M.ir. has sinced written about articles on various topics from Cure Anxiety, Essential Oils and Skin Care. The author is an expert on therapeutic use of essential oils in alternative medicine. Her website offers in-depth essential oil descriptio. Misty Rae Cech Nd, M.ir.'s top article generates over 27100 views. Bookmark Misty Rae Cech Nd, M.ir. to your Favourites.
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